Thursday, 26 September 2019

31. France: Alsace, Dordogne, Cote d'Azur & Provence

In for penny. In for a pound. Isn't that the old saying?
Having clocked up 10,000 km in Italy, Sicily, Greece, Italy again, Germany, the Netherlands, Belgium and more of Germany, it didn't seem too much of a challenge just to cross France from the north-east to the south-west to look at a couple of stone houses.

First stop after leaving Stuttgart was the Alsace wine region of France, way up in the north-east on the German border.


Colmar is in the Grand Est region of northeastern France, near the border with Germany. Its old town has cobblestone streets lined with half-timbered medieval and early Renaissance buildings. The city is on the Alsace Wine Route and local vineyards specialize in Riesling and Gewürztraminer wines. 

Colmar and its surrounding wine villages were really lovely. The old town was built on a series of canals.


It's called  'Little Venice'.


This is the original indoor market hall, now with a modern dining deck but still a very elegant building.

 

The Koifhus. The former customs house and the oldest building in Colmar with a roof typical of the region.


Next stop was Dijon the capital city of the historical Burgundy region in eastern France, one of the country’s principal wine-making areas. It’s known for its traditional mustard, vineyard tours, autumn gastronomic fair and building styles ranging from Gothic to art deco.
Dijon was lovely - elegant and quiet. This is the gothic church of Notre Dame de Dijon.


And here is the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, now the fine arts museum.


From Dijon we couldn't resist a couple of hours in Beaune. We stayed here for a week some years ago with good memories of wine, snails and an excellent haircut.
Beaune is a walled town at the center of the Burgundy winemaking region in France. Surrounded by the Côte d'Or vineyards, the cobbled town is renowned for an annual wine auction held at the Hôtel-Dieu (Hospices de Beaune). Pictured above, this 15th-century former hospital is now the Hôtel-Dieu Museum.


Beaune is incredibly well preserved - probably reflecting the long time wealth of this region. After all, it is the heart of Burgundy.


We passed through Lyon and watched the traffic on the Rhone.
Lyon is the capital of France’s Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, and sits at the junction of the Rhône and Saône rivers. Its centre reflects 2,000 years of history from the Romans, medieval and Renaissance architecture to the modern Confluence river district.


It was this tiny cottage in Doissat in the Dordogne that drew us across the country. But alas, it was in a hamlet miles from the nearest village, so we had to look elsewhere. We viewed 11 houses altogether but didn't find what we were looking for.


Our next stop was neither planned nor welcome. We hit a small concrete gutter projection at speed and ripped a great hole in the front right tyre, possibly damaging the rim as well. This meant an unplanned overnight stop in Montauban while the Citroen dealer sourced a replacement tyre. Luckily the rim survived.


House hunting on hold, we headed across the country once more, stopping in Nimes to visit the new Museum of the Romans which is right next to the ancient Roman amphitheatre.
Nîmes is in the Occitanie (former Languedoc) region of southern France, and was an important outpost of the Roman Empire. It’s known for its well-preserved Roman monuments such as the Arena of Nîmes, a double-tiered circa-70 A.D. amphitheater still in use for concerts and bullfights.


Heading east, we stopped for a night at Aigues-Mortes on the Mediterranean coast in the Camargue.
Aigues-Mortes is in the Gard department in the Occitanie region of southern France, formerly Languedoc. The medieval city walls surrounding the city are well preserved.


Our week on the Med coast to catch the last of the summer sun was a lovely village of Saint-Mandrier-sur-Mer across the harbour from the port of Toulon, with a fishing port of its own, tucked into a small inlet.


We had a local wedding at the restaurant on the corner on the Sunday. The bride and groom drove around the whole village standing in the back of the little Citroen and waving. And everyone waved back and cheered - of course.


Toulon was a surprise.


After a week on the water doing absolutely nothing, we were off again.  This time skirting the majestic limestone peaks rolling down from Provence to the sea, around Marseilles.


Our next week was in the Luberon region of Provence, staying in Ménerbes. That is Mont Ventoux at 1912 metres, on the skyline.
Mont Ventoux has become legendary as the scene of one of the most gruelling climbs in the Tour de France bicycle race, which has ascended the mountain fifteen times since 1951.


Ménerbes had the best community gardens I've ever seen. Fruit trees, vegetables, chooks, ducks, bees. composting, hot houses.


A typical cafe in the square at Loumarin in the Luberon. Loumarin was a lovely village.


Beautiful stone flanked with green, everywhere you look.


Vines flanked by woodland, everywhere you look.


The red ochre earth of Rousuillon in the Luberon.


Pierre Cardin's restored fortress/castle- the Chateau de Lacoste.  The former owner was the Marquis de Sade.


The source of the river Sourge bubbling up from the ground springs at Fontaine de Vauclause in Provence.


And here we are now - at our little apartment in Sablet, in the Cotes du Rhone wine region.
Sablet is located west of Mont Ventoux at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail.
It's an authentic Provencal village built on top of a mound in the middle of a plain but we are in the middle of a vineyard.


The view from our deck. Sablet is a round village, characterised by the fact that its streets and houses wind in a spiral around the church. Three trips into the village to the boulangerie have had Paul looking for shortcuts to avoid these one-way circular streets which have you going round and round to connect with a street that takes you to the shop you need.

All fun.






Monday, 9 September 2019

30. Germany: Heidleberg & Stuttgart

Our next stop was beautiful Heidleberg.


Heidleberg is a university town in the state of Baden-Württemberg, situated on the river Neckar in south-west Germany. In the 2016 census, its population was 159,914, of which roughly a quarter were students. Heidelberg is part of the densely populated Rhine-Neckar Metropolitan Region.

Heidelberg University, founded in 1386, is Germany's oldest and one of Europe's most reputable.


The "old town" on the south bank of the Neckar, is long and narrow. It is dominated by the ruins of Heidelberg Castle, 80 metres above the Neckar on the steep wooded slopes of the Königstuhl hill.


The castle is a mish-mash of styles because it has been destroyed and rebuilt so many times since its origins in 1214.


Preservation work began in the 1950s to stabilise the structure.

Our next and last stop in Germany was Stuttgart.


"Stuttgart is also located on the Neckar river in a fertile valley known locally as the "Stuttgart Cauldron".
Its urban area has a population of 634,830, making it the sixth largest city in Germany. 2.8 million people live in the city's administrative region and 5.3 million people in its metropolitan area, making it the fourth largest metropolitan area in Germany.
The city and metropolitan area are consistently ranked among the top 20 European metropolitan areas by GDP." Wiki.


"Stuttgart is a transport junction and possesses the sixth-largest airport in Germany. Several major companies are headquartered in here including Porsche, Bosch, Mercedes-Benz and Daimler AG.

Stuttgart is unusual in the scheme of German cities. It is spread across a variety of hills (some of them covered in vineyards), valleys (especially around the Neckar river and the Stuttgart basin) and parks. This often surprises visitors who associate the city with its reputation as the "cradle of the automobile"." Wiki.


The Porsche Museum was wonderful and Paul was in his element.


I enjoyed it too - who wouldn't.


Although once we got to the motor racing stuff I was glad I had brought a book.

So the second third of this last big road trip was over.  The odometer was reading 10,000km.  The driver wanted to crawl into a cave and sleep for a month and the passenger wanted to go home.

But no, south-west France called as did the end of the summer sunshine and we had two weeks before our next booking on the southern coast near Marseilles.  So we decided to go house hunting - as you do!


29. Leuven - Belgium & Monschau - Germany

Heading south from Amsterdam it was our intention to drive the coast road along the Dutch sea dykes.
But despite our best efforts over several hours, we lost the battle with the lady on the Sat-Nav and became locked into the main north-south autoroute: a boring truck-infested artery of which nothing positive can be said.


Despite a boring and bleak drive from Amsterdam south into Belgium, afternoon delivered us into Leuven, a lovely Belgique town west of Brussels.


Next day was showery again, but Saturday was market day.


If we had been staying in an apartment and not a hotel we would have been having mushrooms for dinner.


Paul had a warm bread breakfast from the mobile boulangerie.


The first wedding of the day, outside the town hall, was a casual affair on bikes. Bride and groom in the middle with the bride in pink shorts and veil.


The second wedding, a couple of hours later was more recognisably 'traditional". Everyone else was there but the bride was missing in action.


The old cathedral is wedged into the side of the square, which is a pity because it is beautiful and deserves a free-standing space of its own.


Saturday morning choir practice - it sounded incredible. I wondered why the weddings were at the town hall when they could have been here with this incredible music.


Despite the optimism of the cafes, the sun stayed away all day and the umbrellas only provided a little protection from the rain.  Belgium is an expensive place to visit (albeit to live).  Coffee was so expensive (about 7.50AUD) that we resorted to Mcdonalds for our 2pm hit.


From Leuven, Belgium we turned east and crossed into western Germany winding down into a deep valley of the Rur river to Monschau, one of those villages that has a snow covered Christmas market.


No snow for us though, only drizzle.  It is the peak of summer - 19 August.


The historic town centre with its many preserved half-timbered houses and narrow streets has remained nearly unchanged for 300 years, making it a popular tourist attraction nowadays.  


Historically, the main industry of the town was cloth-mills.


Almost every house either faces or backs onto fast running water. Not a town for an outdoor lifestyle - even in summer.


The popular European past time of 'hiking', totally unknown to me, probably explains the shoe/boot cleaner at the door of the hotel.


A local speciality was marzipan.  Not very attractive to look at but I'm sure it tasted fine.  Maybe these are "the caterers' packs".